It's chilly and deserted now, but this platform tucked away in a back-street square is one of the most popular open-air bars in the city in the summer. I follow along through the short tunnel and down the connecting back alleyway. Ahead is the rear of St. Peter's church. I pass around it and on to the Dom Church square. The fellow advertising Polaroids with his sign in the center of the square must be off keeping himself warm somewhere.

I'm strolling restlessly. It's more than having been through here a dozen times before. Progress has slowed since last time, slowest for those with the least - you can find appliance stores now, but it's three month's salary for a small refrigerator. The reality of hard times has overtaken the euphoria of independence. Like the square, it's a wide open field. The road forward is strewn with choices: all similar from afar; some with dire consequences.