latviski
Our Latvia album, p. 8
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Sabile
The Abava River
This scenic spot is along the Abava river in Sabile, in Kurzeme. It's along the road from Riga to Kuldīga.
This scenic spot is along the Abava river in Sabile, in Kurzeme. It's along the road from Riga to Kuldīga.
The Abava River
This scenic spot is along the Abava river in Sabile.
This scenic spot is along the Abava river in Sabile.
Soviet Era
Orthodox Cathedral
A museum in 1977, viewed from the Hotel Latvija
A museum in 1977, viewed from the Hotel Latvija
Orthodox Cathedral
A museum in 1977, viewed from the Hotel Latvija
A museum in 1977, viewed from the Hotel Latvija
Dziesmu svētki song festival
"MĀKLA PIEDER TAUTAI", Art belongs to the people, no, national traditions belong to the Soviets to be bent to serve the state
"MĀKLA PIEDER TAUTAI", Art belongs to the people, no, national traditions belong to the Soviets to be bent to serve the state
Dziesmu svētki song festival
"MĀKLA PIEDER TAUTAI", Art belongs to the people, no, national traditions belong to the Soviets to be bent to serve the state
"MĀKLA PIEDER TAUTAI", Art belongs to the people, no, national traditions belong to the Soviets to be bent to serve the state
Kvass wagon
Peters thinks this is the same one he still saw in Riga 20 years later
Peters thinks this is the same one he still saw in Riga 20 years later
Kvass wagon
Peters thinks this is the same one he still saw in Riga 20 years later
Peters thinks this is the same one he still saw in Riga 20 years later
“PIENS - МОЛОКО”
Milk
Milk
“PIENS - МОЛОКО”
Milk
Milk
Dom Church Square
Called (Red) Pioneer Square or some-such
Called (Red) Pioneer Square or some-such
Dom Church Square
Called (Red) Pioneer Square or some-such
Called (Red) Pioneer Square or some-such
Stende
Stende station
The old station building
The old station building
Stende station
The old station building
The old station building
Stende station
The train tracks go off into the distance
The train tracks go off into the distance
Stende station
The train tracks go off into the distance
The train tracks go off into the distance
Usma
Usma
The new Usma's church (replacing the one moved to Brivdaba's muzejs), where Peters' parents married in 1939
The new Usma's church (replacing the one moved to Brivdaba's muzejs), where Peters' parents married in 1939
Usma
The new Usma's church (replacing the one moved to Brivdaba's muzejs), where Peters' parents married in 1939
The new Usma's church (replacing the one moved to Brivdaba's muzejs), where Peters' parents married in 1939
Usma
Usma Lake
Usma Lake
Usma
Usma Lake
Usma Lake
VecrīgaRīga Old Town
Riga's St. Peter's Church
Bombed out in WWII
Bombed out in WWII
Riga's St. Peter's Church
Bombed out in WWII
Bombed out in WWII
Old Rīga
In places they're just trying to keep it from falling down
In places they're just trying to keep it from falling down
Old Rīga
In places they're just trying to keep it from falling down
In places they're just trying to keep it from falling down
Old Rīga
A typical scene… one building side restored, the other waiting for better days
A typical scene… one building side restored, the other waiting for better days
Old Rīga
A typical scene… one building side restored, the other waiting for better days
A typical scene… one building side restored, the other waiting for better days
Old Rīga
Dom Church
Dom Church
Old Rīga
Dom Church
Dom Church
Old Rīga
Looking in from the Daugava, what's that? a new bus!
Looking in from the Daugava, what's that? a new bus!
Old Rīga
Looking in from the Daugava, what's that? a new bus!
Looking in from the Daugava, what's that? a new bus!
Konvent sēta, Convent Courtyard
Konvent sēta, Convent Courtyard
Newlyweds ride off into the sunset, Latvian style
Newlyweds ride off into the sunset, Latvian style
St. Peter's Church
St. Peter's Church
Rīga Castle
Rīga Castle
Pils iela
Pils iela
Avante garde, bohemeian, or both
Avante garde, bohemeian, or both
Rīga castle tower above the Old Rīga rooftops
Rīga castle tower above the Old Rīga rooftops
Castle tower peeking over the rooftops
Castle tower peeking over the rooftops
Old Rīga restored
Old Rīga restored
Undoing half a century of neglect requires a lot of work
Undoing half a century of neglect requires a lot of work
Sculptures lurk around every corner
Sculptures lurk around every corner
Street view of Old Rīga
Street view of Old Rīga
Almost a gingerbread house feeling to Old Rīga
Almost a gingerbread house feeling to Old Rīga
Despite the rainy weather, Silvija's cousin Anda and daughter Kristine take Peters to experience the Dom Square market
Despite the rainy weather, Silvija's cousin Anda and daughter Kristine take Peters to experience the Dom Square market
Tables line the streets, flowers and pottery are popular items in every Latvian home
Tables line the streets, flowers and pottery are popular items in every Latvian home
Ants, beetles, and mushrooms for your "rock" garden
Ants, beetles, and mushrooms for your "rock" garden
A lot of serious shopping going on
A lot of serious shopping going on
Pets or dinner? For now, the chickens (et al.) are safe from the rain and the cookpot.
Pets or dinner? For now, the chickens (et al.) are safe from the rain and the cookpot.
Appetites awoken, we check out pancakes for brunch
Appetites awoken, we check out pancakes for brunch
Rasols (potato salad with pickles, ham, eggs,…), 0.1kg Ls 0.40
Cream, one spoon, Ls 0.15
Banana pancakes, one piece, Ls 0.50
Cream, one spoon, Ls 0.15
Banana pancakes, one piece, Ls 0.50
Rasols (potato salad with pickles, ham, eggs,…), 0.1kg Ls 0.40
Cream, one spoon, Ls 0.15
Banana pancakes, one piece, Ls 0.50
Cream, one spoon, Ls 0.15
Banana pancakes, one piece, Ls 0.50
St. Peters' facade
St. Peters' facade
Ratslaukums, St. Peters' at center, the Hall of the Blackheads to the right
Ratslaukums, St. Peters' at center, the Hall of the Blackheads to the right
Cozy restaurants down side alleys
Cozy restaurants down side alleys
The narrow streets of Old Rīga
The narrow streets of Old Rīga
Radio building
Radio building
Pulvērtornis, the old Powder Tower, at dusk
Pulvērtornis, the old Powder Tower, at dusk
The flag flies over the Riga castle, Gaida's son Arno was there to raise it for the first time ending half a century of Soviet occupation
The flag flies over the Riga castle
Old Rīga
Lady in Red
Lady in Red
Old Rīga
Lady in Red
Lady in Red
Old Rīga
The "Three Brothers" and a flock of Japanese tourists
The "Three Brothers" and a flock of Japanese tourists
Old Rīga
The "Three Brothers" and a flock of Japanese tourists
The "Three Brothers" and a flock of Japanese tourists
Old Rīga
Panorama
Panorama
Old Rīga
Panorama
Panorama
Old Rīga
Vecrīga spires
Vecrīga spires
Old Rīga
Vecrīga spires
Vecrīga spires
Rīga Canal Park
Memorial to Andris Slapiņš, shot by Soviet Black Berets
Memorial to Andris Slapiņš, shot by Soviet Black Berets
Rīga Canal Park
Memorial to Andris Slapiņš, shot by Soviet Black Berets
Memorial to Andris Slapiņš, shot by Soviet Black Berets
Rīga's Jungendstil Architecture
Peters got to wander around Rīga as well, reinforcing his love for Rīga's architecture.
Peters got to wander around Rīga as well, reinforcing his love for Rīga's architecture.
Riga's Jungendstil Architecture
Imagining Rīga in its heyday
Imagining Rīga in its heyday
Radio stacīja
The radio station building in Old Rīga, facing the Dom Church Square. The pock-marks of Soviet bullets attempting to quell the independence movement can just be barely made out in several places.
The radio station building in Old Rīga, facing the Dom Church Square. The pock-marks of Soviet bullets attempting to quell the independence movement can just be barely made out in several places.
Radio Stacija
The radio station building in Old Rīga
The radio station building in Old Rīga
Old Rīga, the Dom church dominates the square
Old Rīga, the Dom church dominates the square
Old Rīga, Orchestra square, since renamed Līvu laukums
Old Rīga, Orchestra square, since renamed Līvu laukums
Rīga, a former church on Citadeles iela
Rīga, a former church on Citadeles iela
Old Rīga, Dom church square, our home page picture
Old Rīga, Dom church square, our home page picture
Old Rīga, Dom church square
Old Rīga, Dom church square
Old Rīga, St. Jacob's church rises above the wet Belgian blocks (still one of our old scans…)
Old Rīga, St. Jacob's church rises above the wet Belgian blocks (still one of our old scans…)
Old Rīga, St. Peters' spire rising in the warm sunlight of sunset
Old Rīga, St. Peters' spire rising in the warm sunlight of sunset
Old Rīga, St. Peter's Church in an artistic view
Old Rīga, St. Peter's Church in an artistic view
Old Rīga, the Reformed Church, also home to the Rīga recording studio
Old Rīga, the Reformed Church, also home to the Rīga recording studio
Balcony
This balcony, off Herder Square in Old Rīga, still exudes its grandeur despite the ravages of time.
This balcony, off Herder Square in Old Rīga, still exudes its grandeur despite the ravages of time.
Balcony
This balcony, off Herder Square in Old Rīga, still exudes its grandeur despite the ravages of time.
This balcony, off Herder Square in Old Rīga, still exudes its grandeur despite the ravages of time.
Old Rīga Street
Scurrying through the rain seems to be a theme!
Scurrying through the rain seems to be a theme!
Old Rīga Street
Scurrying through the rain seems to be a theme!
Scurrying through the rain seems to be a theme!
Old Rīga Street
A wide perspective down the narrow streets.
A wide perspective down the narrow streets.
Old Rīga Street
A wide perspective down the narrow streets.
A wide perspective down the narrow streets.
Pub and Consulate
The Irish Pub, across the street from the ornate Jugenstil Italian consulate.
The Irish Pub, across the street from the ornate Jugenstil Italian consulate.
Pub and Consulate
The Irish Pub, across the street from the ornate Jugenstil Italian consulate.
The Irish Pub, across the street from the ornate Jugenstil Italian consulate.
Janu Seta
Everything is put away for the autumn and winter. Food and drink will return in the spring and summer.
Everything is put away for the autumn and winter. Food and drink will return in the spring and summer.
Janu Seta
Everything is put away for the autumn and winter. Food and drink will return in the spring and summer.
Everything is put away for the autumn and winter. Food and drink will return in the spring and summer.
Sv. Janu Baznica
The spire of St. John's Church
The spire of St. John's Church
Sv. Janu Baznica
The spire of St. John's Church
The spire of St. John's Church
Petera Baznica
The spire of St. Peter's Church disappears into the fog and mist.
The spire of St. Peter's Church disappears into the fog and mist.
Petera Baznica
The spire of St. Peter's Church disappears into the fog and mist.
The spire of St. Peter's Church disappears into the fog and mist.
Petera Baznica
A closer view of the spire ascending.
A closer view of the spire ascending.
Petera Baznica
A closer view of the spire ascending.
A closer view of the spire ascending.
Is No Place Safe?
Every visit, usually sooner rather than later, I head into town to see what's new in Riga. In an era where people still need to reserve 24 hours in advance to make an international phone call, here, not far from the Presidential palace (it's not grandiose, just really, really old!), was the "Internet Cafe!" I've come to expect both these signs of the changing times as well as the dichotomy of the new openly contradicting the old ways.
Every visit, usually sooner rather than later, I head into town to see what's new in Riga. In an era where people still need to reserve 24 hours in advance to make an international phone call, here, not far from the Presidential palace (it's not grandiose, just really, really old!), was the "Internet Cafe!" I've come to expect both these signs of the changing times as well as the dichotomy of the new openly contradicting the old ways.
Is No Place Safe?
No escape from the web
No escape from the web
Latvija for the Pagans
Until the years between the two World Wars, Latvia had not been independent since subjugation by German nobility in the late 1100's. Latvian culture survived through obstinacy, pride, and sacrifice. Now, the West rushes in, Christian churches leading the new Crusades. The sour taste of eight hundred years of foreign incursion and domination — started by a religious Crusade — lingers on. The sign on this church in Vecriga reads,
Until the years between the two World Wars, Latvia had not been independent since subjugation by German nobility in the late 1100's. Latvian culture survived through obstinacy, pride, and sacrifice. Now, the West rushes in, Christian churches leading the new Crusades. The sour taste of eight hundred years of foreign incursion and domination — started by a religious Crusade — lingers on. The sign on this church in Vecriga reads,
SAINT SAVIOUR'S CHURCHPainted over it, the Latvian words "LATVIJA PAGĀNIEM" — Latvia for the pagans.
SERVICES IN ENGLISH
SUNDAY 10 AM
ALL ARE WELCOME
Latvija for the Pagans
Post-Soviet Christian missionaries rush in, 13th century conversion redux
Post-Soviet Christian missionaries rush in, 13th century conversion redux
Latvia for the pagans
A closeup of the graffiti over the Saint Saviours Church sign.
A closeup of the graffiti over the Saint Saviours Church sign.
Latvia for the pagans
A closeup of the graffiti
St. Peter's Church
As you head in from the Daugava river towards the center of Riga's old Town, St. Peter's Church is one of the first sights you encounter. Originally built of wood in 1209, it was rebuilt in 1408 in stone. Steeped in history, it is said that Peter the Great himself helped fight the fire the first time its steeple burned down in 1721, and that he issued the edict for its reconstruction. It then stood for two more centuries before being burnt down again by the retreating Soviet army in 1941. The current steeple is a steel replica. After a reign of five and a half centuries as the tallest building in Riga, the (then Intourist) Hotel Latvija usurped the crown, its builders insuring they erected it one meter taller. Nevertheless, the ride to the observation platform still affords the best, if not highest, view of Riga.
As you head in from the Daugava river towards the center of Riga's old Town, St. Peter's Church is one of the first sights you encounter. Originally built of wood in 1209, it was rebuilt in 1408 in stone. Steeped in history, it is said that Peter the Great himself helped fight the fire the first time its steeple burned down in 1721, and that he issued the edict for its reconstruction. It then stood for two more centuries before being burnt down again by the retreating Soviet army in 1941. The current steeple is a steel replica. After a reign of five and a half centuries as the tallest building in Riga, the (then Intourist) Hotel Latvija usurped the crown, its builders insuring they erected it one meter taller. Nevertheless, the ride to the observation platform still affords the best, if not highest, view of Riga.
St. Peter's Church
Looking up
There's not a whole lot of space in Old Riga—here's our attempt to do a bit of perspective correction from the super-wire-angle we used above.
There's not a whole lot of space in Old Riga—here's our attempt to do a bit of perspective correction from the super-wire-angle we used above.
St. Peter's Church
Bistro New York
Entering Old Rīga, a banner announcing the opening of Ņujorka Restorāns Bistro — no translation necessary. Behind it, another banner for the 55% off 5th anniversary sale at Vision Express.
Entering Old Rīga, a banner announcing the opening of Ņujorka Restorāns Bistro — no translation necessary. Behind it, another banner for the 55% off 5th anniversary sale at Vision Express.
Bistro New York
Entering Old Rīga
Entering Old Rīga
Torņa iela
"Tower street" in Old Rīga, heading toward the Presidential palace.
"Tower street" in Old Rīga, heading toward the Presidential palace.
Torņa iela
"Tower street" in Old Rīga
"Tower street" in Old Rīga
Dom Church Tower
The view down Krāmu iela, "Junk(!) street".
The view down Krāmu iela, "Junk(!) street".
Dom Church Tower
The view down Krāmu iela
The view down Krāmu iela
Konvent Seta
Off the plaza behind St. Peter's Church, the street vendors have already packed up for the "night." In the background is the entrance to Konvent Seta.
Off the plaza behind St. Peter's Church, the street vendors have already packed up for the "night." In the background is the entrance to Konvent Seta.
Konvent Seta
Behind St. Peter's Church
Behind St. Peter's Church
Daugavas Gatve
The Daugavas Gatve passes into Old Riga from the boulevard along the Daugava, past one of the massive towers of the Presidential Palace (to the left).
The Daugavas Gatve passes into Old Riga from the boulevard along the Daugava, past one of the massive towers of the Presidential Palace (to the left).
Daugavas Gatve
Trokšņu iela
Along the old city wall.
Along the old city wall.
Trokšņu iela
along the old city wall
along the old city wall
Riga Winter Night
Light quickly races toward the horizon after about 3:30pm or so. Here we just take a peek down the street in Vecriga ("Old Rīga"), down past the rebuilt Universalveikals (department store) on the left.
Light quickly races toward the horizon after about 3:30pm or so. Here we just take a peek down the street in Vecriga ("Old Rīga"), down past the rebuilt Universalveikals (department store) on the left.
Riga Winter Night
Light quickly races toward the horizon after about 3:30pm or so. Here we just take a peek down the street in Vecriga ("Old Rīga"), down past the rebuilt Universalveikals (department store) on the left.
Light quickly races toward the horizon after about 3:30pm or so. Here we just take a peek down the street in Vecriga ("Old Rīga"), down past the rebuilt Universalveikals (department store) on the left.
Pulvertornis (Powder Tower)
Holiday lights twinkle endlessly through the long, long winter night. Being that the Pulvertornis is home to the War Museum, it's probably best it's left in the dark.
Holiday lights twinkle endlessly through the long, long winter night. Being that the Pulvertornis is home to the War Museum, it's probably best it's left in the dark.
Pulvertornis (Powder Tower)
Holiday lights twinkle endlessly through the long, long winter night. Being that the Pulvertornis is home to the War Museum, it's probably best it's left in the dark.
Holiday lights twinkle endlessly through the long, long winter night. Being that the Pulvertornis is home to the War Museum, it's probably best it's left in the dark.
Our 2002 Powder Tower Christmas card
Our 2002 Powder Tower Christmas card
Old Rīga, Courtyard of the Great Guild
Old Rīga, Courtyard of the Great Guild
Riga, Ratslaukums
Riga, Ratslaukums
Riga, Konvent seta
Riga, Konvent seta
Riga, Jana seta
Riga, Jana seta
Riga, Along Teatra iela
Riga, Along Teatra iela
Riga, Filharmonijas, now Livu, laukums
Riga, Filharmonijas, now Livu, laukums
Riga, Torna iela
Riga, Torna iela
St. Peter's Church through the trees, from Pardaugava
St. Peter's Church through the trees, from Pardaugava
The Riga Presidential castle, from the Vanšu bridge
The Riga Presidential castle, from the Vanšu bridge
Along a Vecriga back street
Along a Vecriga back street
The Dom church and Dom square Christmas tree
The Dom church and Dom square Christmas tree
The Dom church and Dom square Christmas tree
The Dom church and Dom square Christmas tree
Dom Square concert
Dom Square concert
Christmas market
Christmas market
Dom church
Dom church
The old city spires peek out almost anywhere you look up. Only St. Jacob's still has its original spire.
The old city spires peek out almost anywhere you look up. Only St. Jacob's still has its original spire.
A mix of the restored, and the gone.
A mix of the restored, and the gone.
Old Rīga, Pharmacy Museum
Old Rīga, Pharmacy Museum
More and more of Old Rīga exudes its pre-war grandeur
More and more of Old Rīga exudes its pre-war grandeur
Mucenieku iela
Mucenieku iela
A couple of the more fanciful, winged, sphinxes to be found around town
A couple of the more fanciful, winged, sphinxes to be found around town
St. Jacob's, with its original spire, built some time in the 1220's after the wooden church burned in the great fire of Rīga in 1215
St. Jacob's, with its original spire, built some time in the 1220's after the wooden church burned in the great fire of Rīga in 1215
Can't escape the spires
Can't escape the spires
Old Rīga, along Pils iela
Old Rīga, along Pils iela
Old Rīga, along Pils iela
Old Rīga, along Pils iela
Our Lady of Sorrows
Our Lady of Sorrows
Down the street past Our Lady of Sorrows
Down the street past Our Lady of Sorrows
Our Lady of Sorrows
Our Lady of Sorrows
Our Lady of Sorrows, side entrance
Our Lady of Sorrows, side entrance
Next door to Our Lady of Sorrows
Next door to Our Lady of Sorrows
Old Rīga, somewhere between Pils iela and Klostera iela
Old Rīga, somewhere between Pils iela and Klostera iela
A view down Daugavas gāte, Riga castle to the right
A view down Daugavas gāte, Riga castle to the right
Heading back toward the center of the old town, a view down Arsenāla iela
Heading back toward the center of the old town, a view down Arsenāla iela
Old Riga, Klostera iela cat
Old Riga, Klostera iela cat
Old Riga, Klostera iela cat
Old Riga, Klostera iela cat
Old Rīga, view facing east along Klostera iela
Old Rīga, view facing east along Klostera iela
Old Rīga, Klostera iela restored
Old Rīga, Klostera iela restored
Old Rīga, Jekaba iela
Old Rīga, Jekaba iela
Old Rīga, Not quite sure which street, though
Old Rīga, Not quite sure which street, though
Peters' favorite Rīga sculpture, the Miera Deja, Dance of Peace, sculpture, erected in 1970, sculpted by Pārsla Zaļkalne
Peters' favorite Rīga sculpture, the Miera Deja, Dance of Peace, sculpture, erected in 1970, sculpted by Pārsla Zaļkalne
Konvent sēta, Convent courtyard
Konvent sēta, Convent courtyard
Konvent sēta
Konvent sēta
Konvent sēta
Konvent sēta
Konvent sēta
Konvent sēta
Heading toward the Daugava river, St. Peter's Church
Heading toward the Daugava river, St. Peter's Church
Old Rīga, A view toward St. Peter's Church from Kungu iela
Old Rīga, A view toward St. Peter's Church from Kungu iela
Old Rīga, Ratslaukums
Old Rīga, Ratslaukums
Old Rīga, Closeup of the rebuilt House of the Blackheads
Old Rīga, Closeup of the rebuilt House of the Blackheads
Old Rīga, The view toward Ratslaukums from the other side, from behind the Museum of the Occupation
Old Rīga, The view toward Ratslaukums from the other side, from behind the Museum of the Occupation
After 15 years of trips to Latvia, the cobbled streets of Old Rīga and the buildings lining them, still awaiting their post-Soviet make-over, have come to be familiar and comforting friends.
The cobbled streets of Old Rīga
Snowflakes float above Vaļņu iela (Rampart Street) as I head home. The dark pointed tower looming in the background is the Pulvērtornis ([Gun]Powder Tower), now the Latvian War Museum.
Snowflakes above Vaļņu iela
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